When you start looking for fabric for a new cross stitch project, the options can feel a bit overwhelming. Aida, evenweave, linen, different counts; what does it all mean, and how do you know which one to choose?
The good news is that once you understand the three main fabric types and what fabric count means, the decision becomes much more straightforward. This guide breaks down everything you need to know about cross stitch fabrics, from the basics through to practical tips on preventing common problems.
If you prefer watching to reading, head over to our YouTube channel where we have video tutorials covering fabric choices in detail.
The Three Main Types of Cross Stitch Fabric
Cross stitchers typically work with three main fabric types: aida, evenweave, and linen. Each has its own characteristics, and different fabrics suit different skill levels and project types. There's no single "best" fabric; it comes down to what you're making, your experience level, and the finish you want to achieve.
What is Aida Fabric?
Aida is the most widely used cross stitch fabric and the one you'll find in most cross stitch kits. Made from 100% cotton, it has a distinctive block-like weave that creates a visible grid pattern with clear holes at each corner of the squares.
This grid structure is what makes aida so popular with beginners. You can easily see exactly where your needle should go, and counting stitches is straightforward because each square represents one cross stitch.
The fabric was invented by Zweigart in Germany around 1908, specifically for counted cross stitch. Zweigart remains one of the leading manufacturers today, alongside brands like DMC and Charles Craft. You'll also find plenty of unbranded aida available; quality can vary, so it's worth trying different options to see what you prefer.
Aida comes in various counts (more on what count means shortly), with 14 count being the most common. You can find it in dozens of colours, from classic white and cream through to black, pastels, and brights.
Benefits of Aida Fabric
Aida is forgiving for beginners because the holes are large and easy to see. The stiff, starched construction means it holds its shape well and doesn't warp or stretch easily during stitching. Many stitchers work with aida in hand without a hoop, though using one helps keep your tension even.
The fabric is widely available in UK craft shops including Hobbycraft and independent needlework stores, making it easy to find what you need. It's also the most affordable option, which is helpful when you're learning and may make the odd mistake.
Drawbacks of Aida Fabric
The grid pattern that makes aida easy to stitch on can be visible in areas left unstitched, which some people find distracting in finished pieces. If your design has a lot of background showing, aida may not give the smoothest look.
Fractional stitches (quarter and three-quarter stitches used for curved lines and fine detail) can be tricky on aida because you need to pierce through the centre of the fabric block rather than using an existing hole. A sharp needle helps with this.
Some people find aida feels stiff and scratchy initially, but it softens after washing your finished piece.
When to Use Aida
Aida works well for beginners, quick projects, designs where the stitching covers most of the fabric, and teaching children to cross stitch. If you're just starting out, 14 count white or cream aida is a reliable choice. As you build confidence, you can try 16 count for slightly finer detail.
Browse our beginner cross stitch kits; each one includes fabric suited to the pattern's skill level.
What is Evenweave Fabric?
Evenweave fabric is woven with single, evenly-spaced threads running both horizontally and vertically. Unlike aida's block structure, evenweave has a finer, smoother appearance with individual threads you can count.
The name "evenweave" refers to the uniform thread spacing and thickness throughout the fabric. Common evenweave types include Lugana (a cotton-rayon blend from Zweigart), Jobelan, and Brittany. These fabrics are softer and more drapey than aida.
Here's the key difference in how you stitch: on evenweave, you work "over two" threads rather than into individual squares. This means each leg of your cross stitch passes over two fabric threads before going into the next hole. It sounds more complicated than it is, but once you try it, the technique becomes second nature.
Because you stitch over two threads, evenweave counts work differently to aida counts. A 28 count evenweave (28 threads per inch) gives you the same stitch size as 14 count aida (28 ÷ 2 = 14). Similarly, 32 count evenweave equals 16 count aida, and 36 count evenweave equals 18 count aida.
Benefits of Evenweave
The main advantage of evenweave is the smoother, more refined finish it gives your work. The fabric's finer weave means less visible background texture, which looks particularly good in designs with unstitched areas.
Fractional stitches are much easier on evenweave because there's already a hole in the centre of each "square" formed by the two-over-two grid. You don't need to pierce the fabric.
Many stitchers find evenweave more pleasant to work with once they get used to it; the softer fabric feels nicer in your hands during long stitching sessions.
Drawbacks of Evenweave
Evenweave requires more careful counting than aida because the grid isn't as obvious. You'll need to pay attention to ensure you're consistently going over two threads.
The softer fabric can shift and distort more easily, so using a hoop or frame is strongly recommended. Some stitchers prefer Q-snaps (plastic frames with gripper tubes) for evenweave, as they hold the fabric more securely than traditional wooden hoops.
Evenweave frays more readily than aida. You'll need to secure your fabric edges before starting; options include zigzag stitching with a sewing machine, applying Fray Check, or taping the edges with masking tape.
It's typically a bit more expensive than aida, though prices vary by brand and count.
When to Use Evenweave
Evenweave suits intermediate stitchers who want a more polished finish, and it's a good choice for projects featuring fine detail or patterns with unstitched backgrounds. If you've been stitching on aida for a while and fancy trying something new, 28 count evenweave is a natural next step.
What is Linen Fabric?
Linen is a natural fabric made from flax plant fibres. It's traditionally associated with fine needlework, samplers, and heirloom pieces, and many advanced stitchers prefer it for its classic appearance.
What sets linen apart from other evenweaves is its natural irregularities. The flax fibres vary slightly in thickness, creating subtle "slubs" throughout the fabric. These aren't flaws; they're part of linen's character and give finished pieces an organic, traditional look.
You stitch on linen the same way as evenweave, working over two threads. Common linen types include Zweigart's Cashel (28 count), and Edinburgh (36 count).
It's worth knowing that many linens labelled for cross stitch are technically "evenweave linens", meaning the thread spacing is uniform even though the thread thickness varies. True linen with irregular spacing in both directions does exist but is less common for counted work.
Benefits of Linen
Linen has a beautiful drape and natural texture that many stitchers love. It's often chosen for pieces that will be framed or made into keepsakes, as the fabric adds visual interest and a sense of tradition.
The natural variations in the weave can help hide minor imperfections in your stitching, which some people find reassuring. Linen also ages well and becomes softer with washing.
Drawbacks of Linen
Linen is the most expensive of the three fabric types, so it's typically reserved for special projects rather than everyday stitching.
The slubs can make counting more challenging, particularly for those new to stitching over two. Good lighting and magnification help.
Like evenweave, linen frays easily and needs edge protection. It also wrinkles readily, though careful pressing after washing usually solves this.
Using a scroll frame or Q-snap is strongly recommended for linen projects, especially larger ones. The fabric's softness means it benefits from consistent, even tension.
When to Use Linen
Linen is ideal for experienced stitchers creating heirloom pieces, traditional samplers, or projects intended for professional framing. That said, plenty of stitchers never use linen at all, and that's absolutely fine. It's a matter of personal preference rather than a skill level you need to reach.
Our advanced cross stitch kits include projects suited to different fabric types and skill levels.
Understanding Cross Stitch Fabric Count
Fabric count refers to the number of stitches you can fit in one inch of fabric. On aida, this means counting the squares; on evenweave and linen, you count the threads and divide by two (since you stitch over two threads).
The higher the count, the smaller your stitches will be, and the smaller your finished piece. A design stitched on 18 count fabric will be considerably smaller than the same design on 11 count.
Common Aida Counts
11 count
This has large squares that are easy to see, making it good for children, beginners, or anyone with vision difficulties. Stitches are quite chunky at this size.
14 count
This is the most popular and what you'll find in most kits. It offers a good balance between ease of stitching and detail in the finished piece.
16 count
This produces slightly smaller stitches for designs that benefit from finer detail, while remaining manageable for most stitchers.
18 count
This is popular with experienced stitchers who enjoy detailed work. Good lighting is helpful at this count.
20 count and above
This produces very fine stitches. These counts require patience, good eyesight (or magnification), and strong lighting.
How Evenweave and Linen Counts Work
Remember that evenweave and linen counts refer to threads per inch, not stitches. Because you work over two threads, divide the count by two to find the equivalent aida size:
28 count evenweave = 14 count aida 32 count evenweave = 16 count aida 36 count evenweave = 18 count aida
If a pattern recommends 14 count aida, you can substitute 28 count evenweave and your finished piece will be the same size.
Choosing the Right Count
Consider your eyesight, lighting conditions, the pattern's level of detail, and how large you want the finished piece to be. Many stitchers start with 14 count aida, progress to 16 count as they gain confidence, then try 28 count evenweave when ready for something new.
Online fabric calculators can help you work out finished dimensions before you start, which is useful for ensuring your design will fit a particular frame.
Which Needle Size for Which Fabric?
Using the right needle makes stitching easier and prevents stretching your fabric holes. Tapestry needles (with blunt tips) are standard for cross stitch. Here's a general guide:
11 count fabric: size 22-24 needle 14 count fabric: size 24 needle 16 count fabric: size 24-26 needle 18 count fabric: size 26 needle 28 count evenweave or linen: size 26 needle 32 count evenweave or linen: size 26-28 needle
If your needle feels difficult to pull through, try a size smaller. If it slips out of the holes too easily, go a size larger.
Browse our cross stitch accessories and other stitching supplies.
Hoops, Q-Snaps, and Frames
How you hold your fabric while stitching affects both comfort and the finished result.
Aida can be stitched in hand without a frame, but using a hoop helps maintain even tension and keeps stitches consistent. Traditional wooden embroidery hoops work well.
Evenweave benefits from being held taut. Q-snaps often work better than hoops here, as the plastic tubes grip the softer fabric more securely and are less likely to slip.
Linen really does need a frame for best results, especially on larger pieces. Scroll frames and Q-snaps both work well, providing the even tension that helps produce neat stitches.
If using a hoop, avoid leaving your work in it overnight; prolonged pressure can leave marks that are difficult to remove. Moving your hoop position regularly also helps.
Preventing Common Fabric Problems
Stopping Fabric Fraying
Evenweave and linen fray readily, and even aida can shed threads on larger projects. Before you start stitching, protect your edges using one of these methods:
Zigzag stitch around the edges with a sewing machine, apply Fray Check or similar fabric sealant. Fold and whip stitch the edges by hand then tape the edges with masking tape (remove before washing).
Always cut your fabric with a few inches extra around your design area to allow for framing and finishing.
Avoiding Hoop Marks
Hoop marks happen when fabric is left under pressure for extended periods. To prevent them:
Remove your work from the hoop when you finish each stitching session. Place tissue paper between the inner and outer hoop rings and reposition your hoop regularly during long projects
If marks do appear, they usually wash out, see our guide on how to wash your cross stitch.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use any fabric for cross stitch?
Cross stitch works best on evenweave fabrics where you can count holes or threads. Waste canvas allows you to stitch on non-evenweave materials like denim or cotton shirts.
Why does my aida feel stiff?
Aida contains starch to help it hold its shape during stitching. It softens considerably after washing your finished piece.
How do I know what count my fabric is?
Use a ruler and count the number of squares (on aida) or thread pairs (on evenweave) within one inch.
Can I substitute aida for evenweave?
Yes. Use the count conversion – for example, 28 count evenweave produces the same stitch size as 14 count aida.
What's the difference between evenweave and linen?
Both are stitched the same way, over two threads. Linen is made from flax and has natural variations in thread thickness. Evenweave has uniform threads throughout.
Does the quality of aida matter?
Quality brands like Zweigart have more consistent weave and tend to hold up better. For practice pieces, budget aida works fine, but you may notice differences in softness and hole size.
Find Cross Stitch Supplies at Caterpillar Cross Stitch
Choosing fabric gets easier with experience, and there's really no wrong answer; it's about finding what works for you and your project. Start with what feels comfortable, and experiment when you're ready.
All our cross stitch kits include fabric matched to the pattern's skill level, so you don't need to worry about selecting the right one. If you're looking to learn more, our YouTube tutorials cover fabric choices and stitching techniques in detail.
Have questions? Our Facebook community is full of friendly stitchers happy to share advice and tips.
Happy stitching!
