- NEW
-
Shop All
-
Accessories
- Subscription Box
- Membership
-
Community
-
Creating handmade Christmas ornaments is a cherished tradition for many UK families, and cross stitching on a plastic canvas offers a wonderful way to make decorations that will last for years. Unlike traditional fabric, plastic canvas provides a sturdy, forgiving base that's particularly well-suited to beginners. It holds its shape without the use of hoops, won't fray at the edges, and creates decorations that can withstand decades of careful handling.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about stitching on a plastic canvas, from selecting the right materials to finishing your ornaments with felt backing and hanging loops. Whether you're new to cross stitch or an experienced stitcher looking to try something different, plastic canvas opens up new possibilities for creating three-dimensional festive decorations.
Plastic canvas is a durable material with regularly-spaced holes that mimics embroidery canvas. Made from moulded plastic, it creates a rigid structure that's ideal for projects that need to hold their shape. You'll find it available in sheets that can be cut to size, as well as pre-cut shapes like circles, stars, and hearts.
For Christmas ornaments, plastic canvas offers several practical benefits. It doesn't require a hoop or frame while you're stitching, which makes it easier to handle small projects. The material won't distort no matter how tight your stitches are, meaning each cross will remain a neat square. Because it's plastic rather than fabric, your finished ornaments are remarkably durable, so they won't fade, fray, or lose their shape over years of storage and display.
There's an important distinction to understand when shopping for plastic canvas. Regular plastic canvas has square holes, which work well for needlepoint but can leave small gaps between your cross stitches. For cross stitch specifically, you want perforated plastic canvas with circular holes. This type creates full coverage, with stitches sitting flush against each other just as they would on Aida cloth.
Plastic canvas comes in different counts (5, 7, 10, and 14), which refers to the number of holes per inch. For Christmas ornaments with good detail, 14-count perforated plastic canvas works particularly well with standard embroidery thread.
Before you begin, gather these supplies:
Plastic canvas: 14-count perforated plastic canvas (the type with round holes, not square). This is available in clear or white; clear works with any design and won't show through your stitches.
Embroidery thread: Stranded cotton in your chosen Christmas colours. You'll use 2-3 strands for a 14-count plastic canvas. DMC threads are widely available and offer hundreds of colour options.
Needles: A size 24 or 26 tapestry needle. Plastic canvas is more rigid than fabric, so a slightly smaller needle than you'd typically use for 14-count Aida can make stitching easier. Learn more about choosing the right needles for your projects.
Scissors: Sharp, precise embroidery scissors with pointed tips. You'll need these for cutting both your canvas and threads cleanly.
For finishing:
Your pattern: A cross stitch chart with full coverage and no fractional stitches. Caterpillar Cross Stitch's Christmas cross stitch kits include many designs that would adapt well to plastic canvas.
If you're new to cross stitch generally, you might find our complete beginner's guide helpful before tackling plastic canvas.
Not every cross stitch pattern works well on plastic canvas, so it's worth understanding what to look for. Your pattern must use only full cross stitches and backstitch; plastic canvas cannot accommodate fractional stitches (half stitches, quarter stitches, or three-quarter stitches) because there are no fabric fibres to stitch between. French knots also don't work well on plastic canvas, as there's nothing to secure them properly.
Look for patterns with full coverage, meaning every square of the design is stitched. Unstitched areas tend to look unfinished on plastic canvas because the material shows through more noticeably than fabric would.
Simple shapes work best for ornaments. Christmas motifs like stars, snowflakes, Christmas trees, stockings, candy canes, and baubles are all excellent choices. These shapes are easy to cut out and typically feature straightforward outlines.
For your first plastic canvas ornament, aim for something around 40-60 stitches in width. This creates a finished piece roughly 3-5 inches across on 14-count canvas – a good size for a tree ornament that's neither too fiddly nor too time-consuming.
Many of the designs in the Christmas range could be adapted for plastic canvas, particularly simpler motifs from larger patterns.
Preparing Your Plastic Canvas
Plastic canvas can't be folded in half to find the centre like fabric, so you'll need to measure. Use a ruler to find the centre point both horizontally and vertically, marking where they intersect with a pin or your needle. This becomes your starting point for stitching.
For beginners, we recommend stitching first and cutting afterwards. This gives you more material to hold onto while you work, making the process far more comfortable. It also prevents the frustration of accidentally cutting your canvas too small. Small pieces of plastic canvas can cause discomfort when holding for extended periods.
If you do prefer to cut first, always add at least 3cm border around your design area. This extra space is essential, you'll need something to hold while stitching, and you can always trim it down later.
When you're ready to cut (either before or after stitching), here's the most important rule: count the bars, not the holes. The bars are the plastic struts that form the grid. If you count holes instead, you'll end up one bar short, which can cause problems when finishing your piece. Count twice, then cut. It's worth taking your time here.
Don't use knots when stitching on plastic canvas. Instead, leave a 1-inch tail of thread on the back of your work. Hold this tail against the canvas and stitch over it with your first few stitches. This secures the thread whilst keeping the back flat and tidy.
Start from the centre point you marked earlier and work outwards. This prevents you from running out of space at the edges, which is particularly important on plastic canvas since you can't simply add more material.
Follow your chart as you would normally, but keep these plastic canvas-specific tips in mind:
Separate your threads: Take all six strands from your embroidery thread and separate them individually before combining 2-3 strands to stitch with. This might seem fussy, but separated threads lay flatter and provide better coverage on plastic canvas. The strands won't twist as much either, making your stitching smoother.
Maintain consistent tension: Plastic canvas doesn't give like fabric does, so you'll feel more resistance as you pull your thread through. Aim for consistent medium tension, not so tight that you're fighting the material, but firm enough that your stitches sit neatly. This is one area where plastic canvas is forgiving: uneven tension won't warp or pucker the canvas as it might with fabric.
Work without a hoop: Plastic canvas is too rigid to fit in an embroidery hoop or frame. You'll stitch it in hand, but the stiffness of the material actually makes this easier than stitching fabric without a hoop. The canvas provides its own structure.
If you need a refresher on basic cross stitch technique, we have a detailed guide covering the fundamentals.
Backstitch works beautifully on plastic canvas for adding definition to your designs. You can use it to outline shapes or add details like the string on a Christmas bauble or the trunk of a tree. Work your backstitch in the same direction as you would on fabric, bringing the needle up through one hole and down through the next.
When you reach the end of your thread, run your needle under 4-5 stitches on the back of your work, then trim close to the surface. The tension of the existing stitches will hold everything in place. You can't use the pin stitch method you might use on fabric because there are no fabric fibres to weave between.
Once your stitching is complete, it's time to cut your ornament to shape. Cut freehand between the bars – it's difficult to mark cutting lines on plastic canvas, so trust your eye and cut slowly.
The golden rule: leave one complete bar around all your stitches. This single bar is what holds your stitches in place. Cut it away, and your stitches will simply fall off the canvas. Always count that one bar out from your final stitch before cutting.
Cut as close to that outer bar as possible without snipping into it. This prevents little plastic bumps that might snag your thread later. If you do end up with small rough edges, you can carefully file them smooth with a nail file.
Use sharp scissors for clean cuts, particularly around corners and curves. Good quality scissors make this job significantly easier and give you better control.
Felt backing gives your ornament a professional finish and hides the back of your work. Cut your felt slightly smaller than your finished ornament, about 2-3mm in from the edge all the way around.
Apply a thin layer of fabric glue to the felt (not to the plastic canvas). Work quickly to press the felt firmly against the back of your ornament, smoothing from the centre outwards to eliminate any air bubbles.
Don't worry if a small amount of glue seeps through the holes in the plastic canvas – it will dry clear and won't show on the front. That said, use glue sparingly. A thin, even layer is all you need.
Allow your ornament to dry completely flat. This usually takes a few hours depending on the glue you've used. Check the manufacturer's instructions for specific drying times.
Cut a 9-inch length of ribbon or embroidery thread in a colour that complements your design. Thread it through a hole at the centre top of your ornament on the back side – aim for the hole in the middle of the bar directly above your top stitch.
Tie the ends together to form a loop, then add a small dot of glue to secure the knot. This prevents the loop from working loose over time. You can tuck the knot behind the felt backing for a neater appearance.
Test the hang of your ornament. Does it sit straight, or does it tip to one side? If it's leaning, you might need to adjust where you've threaded the ribbon, moving it slightly left or right until the ornament hangs level.
For a polished look, you can add an overcast stitch around the edges of your ornament. This covers the outer bar completely and creates a rope-like border.
Thread your needle and bring it up through the first hole at the edge. Take it over the outer bar and up through the next hole. Continue working around the ornament, making sure each stitch sits snugly against the one before it.
At corners, you'll need to work two or three stitches through the same corner hole to ensure full coverage. This can feel tight, but persevere – it's worth it for the neat finish.
For more ideas on finishing techniques, we have a comprehensive guide covering various methods for ornaments and other projects.
Start with simple designs for your first attempts. A solid-colour star or a basic Christmas tree will help you get comfortable with the material before tackling more intricate patterns.
Always measure twice and cut once. This applies to both your plastic canvas and your felt backing. Taking an extra moment to double-check measurements prevents disappointing mistakes.
If your canvas gets bent during storage or transit, don't panic. You can carefully straighten it by placing a damp cloth over the bent area and pressing with a warm iron on low heat. Immediately place it flat under some heavy books and leave it to cool completely.
Consider making several ornaments in one sitting. Once you've got your materials out and your rhythm established, it's efficient to work on multiple pieces. You can also create sets – perhaps stitching a snowflake in different colours, or making matching ornaments for family members.
Date your ornaments on the back with embroidery or a permanent marker. This turns them into keepsakes, documenting the years you've spent creating handmade decorations. It's particularly special if you're making ornaments with children.
Store your finished ornaments flat between sheets of tissue paper. This prevents them from getting scratched and keeps any embellishments from catching on each other. A shallow storage box works well for this.
Keep a needle minder handy whilst you work. Plastic canvas is rigid, so you can't simply stick your needle into it the way you might with fabric. A needle minder keeps it safe during tea breaks.
Cutting too small: Always err on the side of caution. It's straightforward to trim plastic canvas smaller, but impossible to make it larger once you've cut. Give yourself that extra border.
Not leaving the outer bar: This is the most common mistake, and it's devastating when it happens. That final bar around your stitches is non-negotiable. Without it, all your careful work simply falls off.
Using the wrong type of plastic canvas: Square holes create gaps in your cross stitches. Make certain you're buying perforated plastic canvas with circular holes specifically designed for cross stitch.
Cutting before stitching: Whilst not wrong, this is harder for beginners. Small pieces of canvas are awkward to hold and your hands can tire quickly. Unless you're very confident in your measurements, stitch first.
Using too many strands: More thread doesn't necessarily mean better coverage. On a 14-count plastic canvas, stick to 2-3 strands. More than this creates bulk and makes it difficult to pull your needle through cleanly.
Not separating threads: Taking the time to separate your strands individually really does make a difference. The threads lie flatter, provide better coverage, and you'll have fewer problems with twisting and knotting.
Trying fractional stitches: These simply don't work on plastic canvas. If your pattern includes quarter stitches or half stitches, you'll need to either convert them to full stitches (which will look blockier) or choose a different pattern.
Once you're comfortable making Christmas ornaments, plastic canvas opens up numerous other possibilities. You could create gift tags using the same techniques, perhaps stitching recipients' names or initials. Bookmarks work well too – they're flat, practical, and make thoughtful presents.
Coasters are another popular project. Because plastic canvas is waterproof, it's actually quite practical for this use (though you'll want to ensure your felt backing is water-resistant too). You could create a festive set with different Christmas motifs.
Consider making ornaments for other occasions throughout the year. Small cross stitch projects work up quickly and make excellent birthday or celebration gifts. Easter, Halloween, and spring themes all translate well to plastic canvas ornaments.
For those interested in seasonal stitching throughout the year, our guide to cross stitch projects for every occasion offers plenty of inspiration.
Plastic canvas can be found in larger craft shops like Hobbycraft, though the range may be limited to clear 7-count sheets. For 14-count perforated plastic canvas specifically, you'll have better luck with online suppliers or specialist needlework shops.
For patterns, threads, and cross stitch accessories, Caterpillar Cross Stitch stocks everything you need to get started. All kits include high-quality DMC threads and detailed patterns, and whilst these are designed for fabric, many simpler motifs can be adapted for plastic canvas following the guidelines in this article.
If you're looking for specifically Christmas-themed inspiration, browse the full Christmas cross stitch collection to see what designs catch your eye.
Yes, as long as they only use full cross stitches and backstitch. Avoid patterns with fractional stitches (half, quarter, or three-quarter stitches) and French knots, as these techniques don't work on plastic canvas. Patterns need to have full coverage too – designs with large unstitched areas don't look as good on plastic canvas as they do on fabric.
14-count perforated plastic canvas works brilliantly with standard embroidery thread and creates detailed designs suitable for ornament-sized projects. The holes are small enough for good detail but large enough that the project doesn't take weeks to complete. Make certain you're buying perforated plastic with round holes rather than regular plastic canvas with square holes.
No, standard embroidery thread works perfectly. Use 2-3 strands of six-strand cotton for a 14-count plastic canvas. The same DMC threads you'd use for regular cross stitch work just as well here. Some people use yarn for larger count plastic canvas (7-count or 10-count), but for ornaments on 14-count, stick with embroidery thread.
Use quality fabric glue and ensure both surfaces are clean and dry before gluing. Apply the glue to the felt rather than the plastic canvas; this gives you better control. Press firmly and allow adequate drying time according to the manufacturer's instructions. Most glues need at least a few hours to cure fully, and it's worth waiting overnight for the strongest bond.
Spot clean only with a damp cloth. Avoid soaking the ornaments as water may loosen the glue holding your felt backing. If an ornament gets dusty, gently brush it with a soft, dry cloth or use a very slightly damp cloth for stubborn marks. The plastic canvas itself is waterproof, but the glued felt backing isn't, and DMC threads may bleed if soaked.
Hobbycraft stocks some plastic canvas, though availability varies by location. Online craft suppliers generally have better range, particularly for 14-count perforated plastic canvas. eBay often has good options too. When ordering, double-check the product description to ensure you're getting perforated plastic (round holes) rather than mesh plastic (square holes).
Creating Christmas ornaments on plastic canvas is a satisfying project that combines the meditative nature of cross stitch with practical results you can display year after year. These ornaments make wonderful gifts, and because plastic canvas is so durable, they'll become treasured parts of family Christmas traditions.
Start with something simple; perhaps a single-colour snowflake or a small Christmas tree to get a feel for how plastic canvas handles. You'll quickly discover it's more forgiving than you might expect, particularly for beginners. The material guides your needle, holds its shape reliably, and creates finished pieces with real presence.
For more inspiration, tutorials, and Christmas stitching ideas, visit our complete guide to Christmas cross stitch. Whether you're stitching on plastic canvas, traditional fabric, or experimenting with both, there's a whole festive stitching community waiting to welcome you.
Happy stitching, and may your Christmas tree sparkle with handmade treasures this year.
Get started on your cross stitch journey with our beginners guide on how to start cross stitching. From the equipment you need, to creating your first stitch and improving your skills, our guide will support you with all you need to know.
So, you’ve come to the end of your cross stitch project and you’re now left with all the small snippets of thread after tucking in the ends… surely we can get creative with these? Here are some different ways of displaying or repurposing the small bits of thread!
