How to Backstitch in Cross Stitch: A Step-by-Step Guide

If you've ever looked at a cross stitch pattern and felt your heart sink at the sight of all those backstitch lines, you're not alone. Many stitchers find backstitch a bit daunting at first, and some admit to actively avoiding patterns that include it.

The good news? Backstitch is far more straightforward than it appears. Once you understand the technique and pick up a few practical tips, you'll wonder why it ever seemed tricky. This guide covers everything you need to know: how to read backstitch on patterns, step-by-step stitching instructions, what to do with those awkward diagonal lines, and how to fix the most common problems.

Whether you're new to cross stitch or have been stitching for years but never quite got the hang of backstitch, this guide will help you approach it with confidence.

What is Backstitch in Cross Stitch?

Backstitch is a line stitch used alongside your cross stitches. While cross stitches create X-shaped marks that fill in areas of colour, backstitch creates continuous lines that flow across your fabric.

The name comes from the way you work the stitch: instead of moving forwards with each stitch, you bring your needle up ahead of your previous stitch and then work backwards to meet it. This creates a solid, unbroken line.

In cross stitch projects, backstitch is typically used for:

• Outlining shapes and separating colour blocks
• Adding fine details like facial features, text, or small elements
• Creating thin lines that would look too bulky as cross stitches
• Defining edges to help different parts of a design stand out

If you're just getting started with cross stitch, you might find our beginner kits helpful for understanding the basics before tackling backstitch.

Why Backstitch Makes Such a Difference

There's a reason stitchers love sharing "before and after" photos of their work online. The difference backstitch makes can be remarkable.

Without backstitch, cross stitch designs can look slightly soft or blurred, with colour blocks blending into each other. Adding backstitch brings definition and sharpness. Edges become crisp, details pop, and the whole design gains depth.

Think of it like the difference between a sketch and a finished drawing. The cross stitches lay down the colour and form, while backstitch adds the outlines that bring everything into focus.

Backstitch is particularly effective for:

• Separating similar colours that might otherwise merge together
• Highlighting focal points like faces, flowers, or text
• Adding fine details that would be lost if stitched as full crosses
• Creating depth by outlining elements in the foreground

That said, not every design needs backstitch. Some stitchers prefer the softer look of cross stitch alone, and some patterns (particularly large, photo-realistic designs) rely on colour blending rather than outlines. It's worth knowing the technique even if you don't use it on every project.

How to Read Backstitch on a Cross Stitch Pattern

Before you start stitching, you need to understand how backstitch appears on your pattern chart. This trips up many beginners, so it's worth taking a moment to study your pattern before you begin.

Backstitch is usually shown as solid lines on the chart, drawn over the grid of symbols. These lines might be black, or they might be colour-coded to match different thread colours. Always check your pattern's key to see which thread colour each line represents.

The pattern key will tell you:

• Which thread colour to use (often given as a DMC or Anchor number)
• How many strands to use (usually one, sometimes two)
• Sometimes, the order in which to complete different backstitch elements

Some patterns show backstitch landing "between" squares. This is intentional and means the designer wants the line to pass through a point that doesn't have a hole in the fabric. Don't panic when you see this;  we'll cover how to handle it later in this guide.

Larger patterns sometimes include a separate backstitch chart. This is an overlay showing just the backstitch lines without the cross stitch symbols, making it easier to see where the lines should go.

Tip: Before you start any backstitch, study the finished photo that came with your pattern or kit. This shows you exactly what the backstitch should look like when complete, which helps you understand what each line is meant to achieve.

When Should You Do Your Backstitch?

One of the most common questions about backstitch is when to do it;  after all the cross stitches are finished, or as you work through the design? Both approaches have their merits, and the right choice depends on your project and personal preference.

Completing All Cross Stitches First

This is the approach most stitchers recommend, particularly for beginners. You complete all your cross stitches, then go back and add the backstitch as a final step.

Why this works well:

• You can see the full design before adding outlines, making it easier to follow the backstitch lines
• No risk of accidentally stitching your cross stitches over your backstitch (which can hide the lines)
• There's a satisfying "reveal" moment when you add the backstitch and watch the design come to life

Best for: Smaller projects, designs where backstitch overlaps cross stitches, and stitchers who enjoy that final transformation.

Backstitching As You Go

Some stitchers prefer to complete the backstitch for each section before moving on to the next area. This means you're constantly switching between cross stitch and backstitch throughout the project.

Why this works well:

• Breaks the backstitch into manageable chunks rather than leaving a mountain of it until the end
• Keeps motivation up; you see finished sections as you work
• Easier to manage different thread colours if your backstitch uses multiple shades

Best for: Larger projects with extensive backstitch, designs where different sections are clearly separated, and stitchers who find leaving all backstitch until the end overwhelming.

Which Approach is Right for You?

There are no strict rules here. If you've been putting off backstitch because it feels like a chore at the end of a project, try working it in sections as you go. If you love that final reveal, save it for last.

Some stitchers use a combination: completing cross stitches and backstitch together in one area, then moving to another section. Experiment to find what suits your stitching style.

What You'll Need for Backstitching

Having the right supplies on hand makes backstitch much easier. Here's what to gather before you begin:

• Embroidery floss - in the colours specified by your pattern (usually one strand for backstitch, but check your pattern's key)
• A needle - either a tapestry needle or a sharp embroidery needle. Sharp needles are helpful when your fabric is densely stitched or when you need to pierce the middle of an Aida square. Tapestry needles work well when your backstitch follows the existing holes.
• Small, sharp scissors - for trimming threads
• Good lighting - backstitch involves fine details, and proper light makes a real difference
• Your pattern - with the backstitch markings clearly visible
• Your cross stitch project - either completed or with the relevant sections finished

If you're looking for a project to practise backstitch, our beginner kits include patterns with clear instructions and manageable amounts of backstitch.

How to Backstitch: Step-by-Step

Now for the practical part. Let's work through the backstitch technique from start to finish.

Starting Your Backstitch Thread

Unlike cross stitch, where you might use a loop start or pin stitch, backstitch usually begins by anchoring your thread under existing stitches.

Method 1: Anchoring under existing stitches

This is the most common approach. On the back of your work, run your needle under 3-4 existing cross stitches, then bring your needle up at the starting point of your backstitch line. The cross stitches will hold your thread in place as you work.

Method 2: Loop start (for two strands)

If your pattern calls for two strands of backstitch, you can use the loop start method. Cut one strand of floss twice your usual length, fold it in half, and thread the folded end through your needle. Bring your needle up through the fabric, make your first stitch, and catch the loop on the back before pulling tight.

Method 3: For isolated backstitch areas

Sometimes you'll need to backstitch in an area with no nearby cross stitches to anchor under. In this case, leave a short tail (about 2-3cm) on the back and hold it in place with your finger as you make your first few stitches. The backstitch itself will secure the tail as you work.

You don't need knots for backstitch. They can create lumps that show through to the front of your work.

The Basic Backstitch Technique

Here's how to work a simple line of backstitch:

1. Bring your needle up at point A: this is the starting point of your backstitch line.
   Insert your needle down at point B: usually one square along the line from point A.
2. Pull your thread through to complete the first stitch.
3. Bring your needle up at point C:  one square beyond point B, in the direction you're working.
4. Insert your needle back down at point B: yes, the same hole you used before. This connects your new stitch to the previous one, creating a continuous line.
5. Repeat the pattern: come up at a new point ahead, then go back down to meet your previous stitch.
   

This "working backwards" motion is why it's called backstitch. You're always moving forward to start each stitch, then stitching back to connect to what you've already done.

If you’re more of a visual learner, here’s a step by step video tutorial on how to do your first backstitch.

Two Methods: Push-and-Pull vs Sewing Method

There are two ways to physically make your backstitch, and both produce the same result.

Push-and-pull method: You make two separate movements; push the needle down through the fabric, then flip your work (or reach underneath) to push it back up. This gives you more control and works well in dense, heavily stitched areas where there isn't much room to manoeuvre.

Sewing method: You insert the needle and bring it back up in one fluid motion, scooping through the fabric. This is faster once you get comfortable with it, and many experienced stitchers prefer it.

Try both and see which feels more natural for you.

Finishing Your Backstitch Thread

When you reach the end of a backstitch line or run out of thread, you need to secure it before cutting.

Run your needle under 3-4 existing stitches on the back of your work. These can be cross stitches or backstitch; either will hold your thread in place. Some stitchers like to wrap around one stitch for extra security.

Clip your thread close to the fabric, taking care not to cut any other stitches.

One thing to watch: Avoid running dark threads under light-coloured stitches, as they may show through to the front. If you need to travel across the back of your work, try to pass under stitches of a similar colour.

How to Handle Diagonal Backstitches

Diagonal lines are one of the trickiest aspects of backstitch, and they're the source of much frustration for stitchers. The problem? Diagonal lines often don't align neatly with the holes in your fabric.

Here are three approaches you can use:

Option 1: Corner to Corner

Stitch from the corner of one square to the corner of another, following the diagonal path shown on your chart. This may mean making longer stitches that span 2-3 squares.

This approach works well when:

• The diagonal line on your chart is clear and consistent
• You're working on a lower count fabric where longer stitches won't look out of place
• The line is meant to be smooth rather than detailed

Option 2: Pierce the Fabric

Use a sharp needle to go through the middle of an Aida square, creating a new hole where you need one. This is similar to the technique used for quarter stitches.

This approach works well when:

• Your diagonal line needs to follow a specific path
• You're creating gentle curves
• You want more control over exactly where the line goes

Option 3: Adjust to the Nearest Hole

Instead of following the chart exactly, shift your line slightly to meet the nearest existing hole. From a normal viewing distance, the finished piece often looks fine.

This approach works well when:

• Exact placement isn't critical to the design
• You prefer not to pierce the fabric
• The adjustment is minor (a fraction of a square)

Practical tip: There's no single "correct" way to handle diagonal backstitch. Before committing to one method for your whole project, test a small section and step back to see how it looks. What seems obvious close up often becomes invisible from arm's length.

How Long Should Each Backstitch Be?

Another common source of confusion is stitch length. Should you go through every hole, or can you skip a few?

General guidance: Most stitchers work one or two squares at a time for standard backstitch.

For straight lines: You can stitch over 2-3 squares if you prefer, but be aware that longer stitches are more likely to shift or snag. If you're outlining a long, straight edge, you might choose to make longer stitches for speed, or shorter stitches for a neater appearance.

For curves and fine details: Shorter stitches (one square at a time) give you more control and better definition. Facial features, small text, and delicate elements usually look best with short, consistent stitches.

For diagonal lines: Follow the natural path of the line, which often means longer stitches. Let the chart guide you.

Some patterns specify stitch lengths in their instructions, so always check. If your pattern doesn't mention it, use your judgement based on what looks right.

Honest note: Some stitchers are committed to hole-to-hole stitching for everything; others happily skip 2-3 squares without any issues. There's no wrong answer. Try both approaches on a test area and see what you prefer.

How Many Strands Should You Use?

The number of strands you use affects how your backstitch looks. Too few and the lines may seem faint; too many and they can look bulky and overpower your cross stitches.

The standard recommendation is one strand for most backstitch. This creates a fine line that adds definition without dominating the design.

Use two strands when:

• Your pattern specifically calls for it
• You want a bolder, more prominent line
• You're working on a lower count fabric (11ct or 14ct) where one strand might look too thin

Stick with one strand when:

• Working on higher count fabrics (18ct and above)
• The backstitch is for fine details like facial features
• You want the lines to be subtle rather than bold

If your backstitch looks too thick or is overwhelming your cross stitches, check your strand count. Dropping from two strands to one often solves the problem.

Always check your pattern's key for strand recommendations; designers choose their strand counts carefully to achieve a particular look.

Common Backstitch Problems and How to Fix Them

Even experienced stitchers run into trouble with backstitch occasionally. Here are the most common problems and how to solve them.

Fabric is Too Dense to Get the Needle Through

This often happens when you leave all your backstitch until the end of a project. The fabric becomes packed with cross stitches, making it hard to push your needle through.

Solutions:

• Switch to a sharp embroidery needle instead of a blunt tapestry needle
• Try a smaller needle size
• Consider backstitching in sections as you go, rather than all at the end

Thread Keeps Twisting

Embroidery floss naturally twists as you stitch, which can make your backstitch look uneven.

Solutions:

• Let your needle dangle freely every few stitches to let the thread unwind
• Use shorter lengths of thread (around 30-40cm)
• The sewing method tends to cause less twisting than push-and-pull

Long Stitches Are Shifting or Looking Loose

When backstitch spans several squares, the thread can move around and look untidy.

Solutions:

• Break long lines into shorter sections
• For very long decorative lines, you can use "couching" - make a tiny stitch over the long thread at intervals to hold it in place
• Keep your tension consistent

Stitches Look Uneven or Wobbly

Wobbly backstitch usually comes from inconsistent stitch lengths or varying tension.

Solutions:

• Try to keep all your stitches the same length
• Work in the same direction where possible
• Maintain steady, even tension as you pull each stitch

Backstitch Looks Too Thick

If your backstitch is overwhelming your design, the lines are probably too heavy.

Solutions:

• Check your strand count in case you may be using too many strands
• One strand is standard for most projects; try reducing if you're currently using two

Not Sure Where to Start

Looking at a complex web of backstitch lines can be paralysing.

Solutions:

• Begin at a corner, junction point, or one end of a line
• Work outwards along the line in one direction
• For designs with multiple backstitch colours, complete one colour at a time

Creative Ways to Use Backstitch

Once you're comfortable with the technique, you'll spot opportunities to use backstitch throughout your projects. Here are some of the most common applications:

Text and lettering: Backstitch creates clear, readable letters that would look clunky as cross stitches. Names, dates, quotes, and labels all work well in backstitch.

Facial features: Eyes, mouths, noses, and eyebrows often look more natural as backstitch. The fine lines capture expression in a way that cross stitch can't match.

Plant details: Stems, leaf veins, floral elements,  branches, and tendrils are naturals for backstitch. The flowing lines suit organic shapes and nature designs.

Animal features: Whiskers, fur texture, feather markings, and other fine details bring animal designs to life.

Architectural elements: Window frames, roof lines, fences, doors, and brickwork outlines all benefit from the crisp edges backstitch provides.

Do All Cross Stitch Patterns Need Backstitch?

Not at all. Backstitch is a design choice, not a requirement.

Some patterns don't include any backstitch. Large, photo-realistic designs often rely on colour blending and shading rather than outlines. The detail comes from the cross stitches themselves.

Even when a pattern does include backstitch, you can choose whether to use it. Some stitchers prefer the softer look of cross stitch alone and skip the backstitch entirely. Others add their own backstitch to patterns that don't include it.

It's your project. You decide what looks right to you.

If you're unsure, try completing the cross stitch first, then hold the piece at arm's length. If you're happy with how it looks, you might not need backstitch. If it feels like something's missing, the backstitch will probably help.

Frequently Asked Questions About Backstitch

Can I skip the backstitch on my pattern?

Yes. It's your project and your choice. Some stitchers prefer the softer look without backstitch. Complete your cross stitches first, then hold the piece at arm's length to see if you're happy with it before deciding.

My pattern shows backstitch going through the middle of squares. What should I do?

You have options: use a sharp needle to pierce the fabric at that point, or adjust slightly to the nearest hole. Both approaches work well, and the difference is rarely noticeable in the finished piece.

Should backstitch be the same colour as my cross stitches?

Usually backstitch is a different colour, often darker,  to create contrast and make the lines visible. Always check your pattern's colour key for the specified thread.

Why does my backstitch look wobbly?

This typically happens when stitch lengths vary or tension is inconsistent. Try working shorter, more regular stitches and keeping your tension steady throughout.

Is backstitch easier on linen or evenweave?

Many stitchers find it easier on evenweave and linen because you can stitch into the spaces between threads without piercing the fabric. The extra holes give you more flexibility for diagonal lines.

I hate backstitch. Is that normal?

Completely normal. Many stitchers have a love/hate relationship with it. If backstitch feels like a chore, try breaking the work into smaller sections, working it as you go rather than all at the end, or putting on some music or a podcast to make the time pass more pleasantly.

Ready to Try Backstitch?

Backstitch is one of those techniques that feels awkward at first but quickly becomes second nature. Your first few attempts might not be as neat as you'd like, but with a little practice, you'll find a rhythm that works for you.

The key is not to overthink it. Start simple, work steadily, and don't worry about being too precise. Cross stitch is meant to be enjoyable, and backstitch is just one more tool in your stitching toolkit.

If you'd like to share your progress or ask questions, our Facebook community is a friendly place to connect with other stitchers. We'd love to see your before and after photos.

Looking for your next project? Browse our cross stitch kits and patterns to find something that inspires you.

Happy stitching.