(Article cover image taken by Jackie - Caterpillar Cross Stitch Facebook Group)
You've finished your cross stitch. You've tied off the last thread, snipped the tail, and held it up to the light. Now you want to get it on the wall, and you'd rather not mess it up at this stage.
Framing cross stitch at home is genuinely manageable. You don't need specialist tools, and you don't need to take it to a professional framer. This guide covers the full process: washing and ironing before you frame (a step most tutorials skip), how to choose between the two main methods, whether to use glass, and what to do when things don't go quite to plan.
Whether you've just finished your first cross stitch kit or you're building up a collection of finished pieces, the steps below work for all levels.
Before You Frame: Washing and Ironing Your Cross Stitch
This is the step that most framing tutorials leave out entirely, and it's the one that comes up most often in stitching communities: do I need to wash my cross stitch before I frame it?
The short answer is: not always, but usually yes. Here's why it matters.
Even if your piece looks clean, the oils from your hands transfer to the fabric every time you handle it. Over time, those oils can cause yellowing, particularly on white or cream aida. Washing before framing removes that residue and gives your piece the best chance of looking good for years to come. It also takes out hoop marks, which can be surprisingly stubborn, and relaxes any creasing in the fabric.
How to Wash Your Cross Stitch Safely
Before you do anything else, test for colourfastness. Dampen a short length of thread from your project and press it firmly onto a piece of white paper or white fabric. If colour transfers, do not submerge the piece in water. Spot clean only, and skip the steam setting on your iron. Most DMC thread is colourfast, but hand-dyed threads and some specialist fibres can bleed, so it's always worth checking.
If the colourfastness test passes:
- Fill a clean bowl or basin with cool or lukewarm water and add a small amount of mild liquid soap (standard washing-up liquid without dyes) works well. Do not use biological detergent, as the enzymes can affect thread dyes.
- Submerge the piece gently and leave it to soak for around 15–20 minutes. Don't rub or wring.
- Rinse thoroughly with cool, clean water until the water runs clear.
- Lay the piece flat on a clean white towel, roll the towel up, and press down to remove excess water. Don't twist.
- Leave flat to dry away from direct sunlight.
Ironing Before Framing
Once the piece is fully dry, iron it on the reverse side. Place a clean, folded towel or pressing cloth underneath to protect the stitches from being flattened, and lay another cloth on top if you're unsure about direct contact from the iron. Use a medium heat setting. Don't iron the front, as you'll risk flattening your stitches and dulling the threads.
The piece should be completely dry before you iron it. If it feels even slightly damp, leave it longer.
What You'll Need
Gather everything before you start. Having to hunt for pins halfway through makes the whole process more frustrating than it needs to be.
For both methods:
- A picture frame
- Foam core board, approximately 3mm or 5mm thick (sometimes labelled as foam core mount board; acid-free is best for long-term preservation; available from Hobbycraft, The Works, Rymans, and online craft suppliers)
- Brown paper or backing paper (to seal the back of the frame)
- Double-sided tape
- An erasable fabric pen (not a regular pen or marker)
- Ruler
- Scissors
For the pinning method: T-pins or small dressmaker's pins, and a few bulldog clips or clothes pegs to hold edges while you work
For the lacing method: A needle and strong thread: doubled-up DMC thread works well; avoid thin sewing cotton, which can snap under tension when you're pulling it taut
Pinning or Lacing: Which Method Should You Use?
Both methods produce a good result, so this really comes down to your project and how much time you want to spend.
Choose pinning if:
- You have at least 5–8cm (2–3 inches) of fabric around the design on all sides
- This is your first time framing and you want something forgiving, as pins are easy to remove and reposition if things don't look right
- You want a quicker result
Choose lacing if:
- You have minimal excess fabric (less than 5cm / 2 inches around the design)
- You're framing something you want to keep long-term, gift, or enter into a show. Lacing gives a very flat, secure finish
- The piece is large and pinning alone might not hold the tension evenly
Not sure? Go with pinning. It works well for most standard kit projects and is much easier to redo if you're not happy with the result.
Method 1: The Pinning Method
This is the most popular approach for framing cross stitch at home, and it's a good starting point for beginners. Once the piece is mounted on the foam board, it can also be displayed as-is without a frame if you prefer a simpler look.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Find your centre points. Mark the centre of your foam board by drawing two diagonal lines from corner to corner; where they cross is your centre. Do the same on the back of your finished cross stitch, using an erasable fabric pen, not a regular marker.
Step 2: Align your piece. Place the cross stitch face-up on the foam board, lining up your two centre marks. Push a single pin through both layers at the centre point to hold position. Use a ruler to check the margins on all four sides are even.
Step 3: Clip the edges temporarily. Use bulldog clips or clothes pegs to hold the fabric folds against each edge of the board. This stops the fabric slipping while you work, which is one of the most common mid-process frustrations.
Step 4: Pin the longest edges. Flip the board over. Fold the two longest edges of fabric over onto the back and, starting from the centre of each edge, push pins into the sides of the foam board through the folded fabric. Work outward from the centre, leaving roughly equal gaps between pins. Stop just short of the corners.
Keep gentle, consistent tension as you go: the piece should lay flat, but your stitches on the front shouldn't look stretched or distorted.
Step 5: Pin the shorter edges. Fold the fabric over the two shorter edges and repeat, again working from centre outward.
Step 6: Handle the corners. Fold corners as you would wrap a parcel: point in first, then each side over. Trim any excess bulk and secure with double-sided tape rather than pins.
Step 7: Seal the back and hang. Cut brown paper slightly smaller than the back of the frame and attach with double-sided tape. Add your picture hanger, then place the mounted piece into the frame.
Method 2: The Lacing Method
Lacing takes a little longer than pinning, but it gives a very flat, even result that holds well over time, particularly for pieces going on display for years or being given as gifts. It's also the better choice when you're working with a project that doesn't have much excess fabric around the edges.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Find and mark your centre points. As with the pinning method, mark the centre of both the foam board and the back of your cross stitch, then secure with a single pin through both layers.
Step 2: Clip the edges in place. Use bulldog clips or clothes pegs to hold the fabric folds against each edge of the board. This keeps everything in position while you lace.
Step 3: Begin lacing vertically. Thread your needle with a length of strong thread, doubled up for extra strength. Starting at one short end of the board, bring the thread across from one folded fabric edge to the opposite edge in a zigzag pattern, pulling gently as you go to keep the tension even. Work from one end to the other, then fasten off securely.
The aim is consistent, moderate tension: not so loose that the fabric sags, not so tight that it distorts. Check the front of the piece periodically as you work.
Step 4: Lace horizontally. Re-thread your needle and repeat the lacing process along the longer edges, going perpendicular to your first pass. This second pass pulls the fabric flat in both directions and gives a much more secure result than lacing in one direction only.
Keep your needle well away from the outer edge of the fabric when you stitch through, as going too close to the edge risks tearing.
Step 5: Final assembly. Once lacing is complete, follow the same finishing steps as the pinning method: trim any excess fabric from the corners if needed, seal the back with brown paper and double-sided tape, and place the mounted piece into your frame.
Choosing a Frame for Your Cross Stitch
You don't need to spend a lot on a frame, but it's worth thinking about a few things before you buy.
Depth. Standard photo frames are often quite shallow. You need the recess inside the back of the frame (called the rabbet) to be deep enough to take the foam board plus the folded fabric without the back bowing out noticeably. Check this before you commit to a frame. Ikea Ribba frames are a firm favourite among UK stitchers because they have a deeper recess than most standard photo frames, and they come in a good range of sizes and neutral finishes.
Size. Measure the design area of your cross stitch, not the total fabric. If you're using a window mount (the card surround that sits between the glass and your work), factor in that it will reduce the visible area slightly.
Colour. Neutral finishes (natural wood, white, cream, black) tend to work well with most designs. There's no rule against a coloured frame; if your design has a strong accent colour, picking it up in the frame can look really effective.
Where to find frames in the UK. Beyond Ikea, Hobbycraft, The Range, and The Works all stock basic frames. Charity shops and car boot sales are also worth a look, and you can often find solid frames with good depth at a fraction of the price. Re-using an old frame is satisfying in its own right.
Should You Use Glass When Framing Cross Stitch?
This is probably the most debated question in cross stitch finishing, and there isn't one right answer.
The case for glass: Glass protects your work from dust, oils from handling, and household grime. It means you can clean the surface without disassembling the frame. UV-filtering or conservation glass goes a step further and slows thread fading over time.
The case against: If the glass sits directly on top of your stitching, it flattens the stitches. There's also a condensation risk if the piece wasn't fully dry before framing.
The sensible middle ground: Use glass, but make sure it doesn't touch the stitching. A window mount (the card surround that creates a gap between the glass and fabric) solves this neatly. If your frame doesn't include a mount, plastic spacers do the same job. Pieces with significant raised elements (heavy beadwork, ribbons, chunky specialty stitches) are often better displayed without glass so the texture shows properly.
If you choose no glass, keep the piece out of direct sunlight and dust it gently every few months with a soft brush.
Photo: Lucy - Caterpillar Cross Stitch Facebook Group
Troubleshooting Common Framing Problems
The fabric looks wrinkled or puckered. This usually means the tension is uneven, with some areas being pulled more than others. Remove the pins or lacing, allow the fabric to relax, and start again. Work more slowly from the centre outward and check the front regularly as you go.
The stitches look stretched or distorted. You've pulled the fabric too tight. The same fix applies: remove and restart with lighter tension. The fabric should lay flat, not be stretched taut.
The design looks off-centre. Check your centre markings before you go any further. It's worth spending an extra few minutes on this at the start rather than discovering the problem once you've pinned everything down. A ruler and a good light make this easier.
The corners look bulky. Trim away some of the excess fabric before folding; a little goes a long way. Fold the corners as you would wrap a parcel, score each fold with a fingernail to keep it crisp, and secure with double-sided tape rather than pins.
My gridding lines are still showing through. If you used an erasable fabric pen to mark your grid and ironed the fabric before fully erasing the lines, the heat may have set them permanently. Prevention is the best approach here: always erase gridding lines completely before ironing.
Caring for Your Framed Cross Stitch
A framed piece can last for decades in the right conditions.
Light. Direct sunlight fades thread colours over time, particularly reds and purples. Hang your piece away from windows with direct sun, or use UV-filtering glass if that's unavoidable.
Humidity. Avoid bathrooms and above cookers, where steam and fabric are not a good long-term combination.
Cleaning. Dust the frame and glass with a soft, dry cloth. If you need to clean the glass, dampen the cloth first rather than spraying directly, as liquid behind the glass can damage the fabric.
Longevity. If you're framing a piece as a keepsake or gift, use acid-free foam board and backing paper. Standard materials can become slightly acidic over time, which affects thread and fabric. Acid-free alternatives are available from Hobbycraft and most craft suppliers.
Other Ways to Display Your Finished Cross Stitch
A traditional picture frame is the most popular option, but it's far from the only one.
Embroidery hoops make a simple, informal display, particularly good for smaller, circular designs. If you stitched in a hoop, you can finish the back neatly with felt and hang it as-is. We've got a full guide on other ways to finish your cross stitch if you want to see what's involved.
Wall hangings work well for larger pieces and add a different kind of texture to a wall. You can also turn finished cross stitch into ornaments, cushions, and other keepsakes, especially satisfying for designs that feel too special to sit behind glass.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to wash my cross stitch before framing?
Not strictly, but it's a good idea, especially if the project took a long time. Washing removes handling oils that can yellow the fabric over time, and takes out hoop marks. Always test for colourfastness first.
Should I use glass when framing cross stitch?
In most cases, yes. Glass protects against dust and handling. The key is making sure the glass doesn't press directly onto your stitches. Use a window mount or plastic spacers to keep a gap between the glass and the fabric.
How much fabric do I need to leave around my design?
Aim for at least 5cm (2 inches) on all sides; more is better. This gives you enough to fold over the foam board. If you have less than this, the lacing method is more forgiving than pinning.
What type of foam board should I use?
Acid-free foam core board is best for longevity. It's available from Hobbycraft, The Works, Rymans, and online craft suppliers. Look for white foam boards around 3–5mm thick.
Can I use a standard photo frame?
Yes, as long as it's deep enough to take the foam board and folded fabric without the back bowing. Ikea Ribba frames are popular with UK stitchers because they have a deeper recess than most standard frames.
When should I use the lacing method instead of pinning?
When you have minimal excess fabric, or when you're framing something you want to last: a gift or a piece for a show. Lacing takes longer but gives a very flat, secure result.
Photo: Rebecca - Caterpillar Cross Stitch Facebook Group
Getting Your Work on the Wall
Framing is the moment when a project really becomes something; it stops being a work in progress and starts being a piece you can properly look at and be pleased with. It's worth taking your time over it.
If you'd prefer to watch rather than read, we walk through both methods in our YouTube framing tutorial, which is useful if you want to see exactly how the lacing looks before you try it yourself.
Once your piece is framed, we'd love to see it. Share it in our Facebook community, where thousands of stitchers will genuinely appreciate the work you've put in.
And if the framing process has got you thinking about what to stitch next, take a look at our cross stitch kits. We've got designs for every skill level, from first-timers to experienced stitchers looking for something more challenging.
