December 11, 2025
You've spent hours carefully stitching a lovely design, and now you're wondering how to turn your finished cross stitch into a proper ornament. Whether you're making Christmas tree decorations, birthday gift tags, or seasonal decorations for any occasion, finishing your work correctly makes all the difference between a project that looks handmade with care and one that appears rushed or amateurish.
This guide walks you through five different methods for finishing cross stitch ornaments, from simple stuffed designs to framed miniatures. Each technique suits different project types and skill levels, so you'll find an approach that works for your particular piece.
Before you begin finishing your ornament, gather these materials. You won't need everything for every method, but having supplies ready saves interruptions mid-project.
Basic supplies for most methods:
For stuffed ornaments:
For backed ornaments:
For hoop ornaments:

Not every finishing method suits every cross stitch piece. Your design size, shape, and intended use determine which approach works best.
Stuffed ornaments create three-dimensional decorations with a soft, cushioned feel. They work beautifully for Christmas tree decorations and hanging ornaments where you want a bit of weight and presence. The downside is they require more time and slightly more advanced sewing skills.
Flat backed ornaments sit closer to the tree or wall and work well when you want to showcase the stitching without any puffiness. They're quicker to make and suit designs where dimensional depth isn't important. Flat ornaments also travel better in the post if you're creating gifts.
Small ornaments (under 3 inches) make wonderful tree decorations and can be completed quickly. They work well for sets where you're making multiple decorations with a theme. These sizes typically use 14-count Aida and feature simple designs.
Medium ornaments (3-5 inches) offer more stitching detail while remaining practical for hanging. This size range works for both tree decorations and wall hangings, giving you flexibility in how you display finished pieces.
Large ornaments (5+ inches) create statement pieces for walls or doors rather than tree decorations. These require more planning for finishing because of the weight and size.

Christmas tree decorations remain the most popular use for cross stitch ornaments, but you can create beautiful pieces for any celebration. Easter ornaments featuring bunnies, eggs, and spring flowers brighten the season. Birthday gift tags add a personal touch that recipients treasure. Baby's first ornament becomes a keepsake for new parents, whilst wedding favour ornaments make memorable gifts for guests.
Proper preparation ensures your ornament looks its best and lasts for years.
Wash your cross stitch before finishing if you've noticed any marks from handling or if oils from your hands have transferred to the fabric. Use cool water and a gentle, bleach-free detergent. Rinse thoroughly and lay flat to dry on a clean towel.
If your work looks clean and you've been careful during stitching, you can skip washing. Many stitchers prefer not to wash small pieces that will be sealed inside ornaments where dirt won't reach them.
Iron your cross stitch on the reverse side using a pressing cloth. Set your iron to a low or medium heat appropriate for your fabric type. Never press directly onto the front of your stitches, as this flattens them and removes the lovely texture you've created.
If your work has been in a hoop, you'll likely see circular creases. Light pressing removes these marks. Work from the outer edges toward the centre to avoid pushing fabric and creating new wrinkles.
Count outward from your design edge by about 1-2 inches on all sides. This measurement gives you enough fabric to create seams and handle the piece comfortably. For stuffed ornaments, you'll need at least 1.5 inches. Flat backed ornaments can work with slightly less.
Mark your cutting line with a water-soluble pen and ruler, then cut carefully with sharp fabric scissors. Clean cuts prevent fraying and make sewing easier.
This technique creates the classic soft ornament style that works beautifully for Christmas decorations and year-round celebrations.
Step 1: Cut your backing fabric to match your trimmed cross stitch piece exactly. Cotton quilting fabric works well and comes in countless colours to coordinate with your design.
Step 2: Fold your ribbon in half to create a loop. Position this loop at the centre top of your cross stitch piece, with the loop pointing downward toward the design and the raw ends aligned with the fabric edge. Pin in place and sew across the ends with a few stitches to hold securely.
Step 3: Place your backing fabric and cross stitch the right sides together. The ribbon loop will be sandwiched between the layers. Pin around all edges to prevent shifting.
Step 4: Sew around the perimeter approximately 0.5cm from the edge. You can use a sewing machine set to a straight stitch, or hand sew using backstitch. Leave a gap of about 5-7cm along one side for turning and stuffing. Reinforce the corners with a few extra stitches as these areas take more stress.
Step 5: Trim the corners diagonally, being careful not to cut through your stitching. This reduces bulk and helps corners turn out crisply.
Step 6: Turn your ornament right side out through the gap. Use a blunt tool like a knitting needle to gently push out the corners. Press lightly if needed, avoiding the cross stitch design.
Step 7: Fill your ornament with polyester stuffing, adding small amounts at a time and pushing it into corners first. Aim for firm but not overstuffed. The ornament should hold its shape without feeling hard or lumpy.
Step 8: Close the gap using ladder stitch (also called invisible stitch). This technique creates an invisible seam that looks professional. Thread your needle, knot the end, and work small stitches that catch just the folded edge of each side alternately.
Your stuffed ornament is now complete. The ribbon loop allows easy hanging on trees, hooks, or doorknobs.
Flat backed ornaments finish quickly and travel well, making them ideal for gifts sent through the post.
Step 1: Trim your cross stitch leaving approximately 1 inch of fabric around the design. You need less excess fabric than for stuffed ornaments.
Step 2: Cut a piece of lightweight card or thick interfacing to the exact size of your finished ornament. This adds stiffness without excessive weight.
Step 3: Place your cross stitch face down. Centre the card on the back of your work. Fold the excess fabric over the card edges and secure with fabric glue or small pieces of double-sided tape. Work opposite sides first (top then bottom, then left and right) to maintain even tension.
Step 4: Cut felt backing slightly smaller than your ornament so the folded edges of your cross stitch fabric will show. This creates a neat border effect.
Step 5: Before attaching the felt, create your hanging loop. Use ribbon, cord, or embroidery thread. Position it at the top centre and secure the ends to the back of your work with a dab of fabric glue.
Step 6: Apply fabric glue to the back of your ornament (avoiding the stitched design area) and press the felt backing into place. Weight it down with a book and allow it to dry completely, typically 2-3 hours.
Step 7: Optional finishing touch: glue decorative cord, ribbon, or bias binding around the edges to cover the join between front and back. This adds a polished look and protects edges from wear.
Embroidery hoops offer the quickest finishing method and display your work with a charming handmade aesthetic.
Step 1: Choose a hoop size that leaves about 1-2cm of fabric visible around your design. Smaller hoops (3-4 inches) work well for tree ornaments, whilst larger sizes suit wall decorations.
Step 2: Centre your design in the hoop and tighten the screw until the fabric sits taut. Ensure your design isn't pulling to one side.
Step 3: Trim the excess fabric around the hoop, leaving about 2-3cm extending beyond the hoop edge.
Step 4: Using a needle and strong thread, sew a running stitch around the fabric edge, about 1cm from the cut edge. Pull this thread to gather the fabric toward the centre. Distribute the gathers evenly and securely with several backstitches.
Step 5: Cut a circle of felt slightly smaller than your hoop interior. This will cover the gathered fabric on the back.
Step 6: Attach the felt backing using blanket stitch worked through the fabric edge and felt. Use embroidery thread in a colour that coordinates with your design. The blanket stitch creates a decorative finish whilst securing the backing.
Step 7: Create a hanging loop by threading ribbon or cord through the hoop hardware at the top.
Hoop ornaments work particularly well for beginner projects because they require minimal sewing skills and complete quickly.
Small decorative frames designed for ornaments create polished, gift-ready presentations. These frames typically come in metal or wood with glass or acrylic fronts.
Step 1: Measure your frame opening carefully. You'll need to mount your cross stitch on the backing board cut to fit this space exactly.
Step 2: Cut foam core board to size using a craft knife and metal ruler. Alternatively, many frame shops will cut boards for you at minimal cost.
Step 3: Mount your cross stitch on the board using either the pinning method (for a temporary display you might change later) or lacing method (for permanent mounting).
Step 4: Insert your mounted work into the frame, add the backing, and secure according to the frame's closure system (usually small tabs or nails).
Step 5: Attach hanging hardware if not included with the frame. Small jump rings work well for lightweight ornaments, whilst heavier frames need proper picture wire.
Framed ornaments suit formal gift-giving and create heirloom pieces that recipients can display year after year.
Fabric stiffener creates self-supporting ornaments that hold their shape without backing, stuffing, or frames. This method works best for designs on lightweight fabric.
Step 1: Protect your work surface with plastic or wax paper, as stiffener can be messy.
Step 2: Apply fabric stiffener (available at most craft shops) according to package directions. Most products require brushing onto both sides of the fabric or dipping the entire piece.
Step 3: Shape your ornament as desired. You can drape it over bottles or bowls to create curved forms, or pin it flat for a traditional shape.
Step 4: Allow to dry completely, typically 24 hours. The fabric will feel rigid and hold whatever shape you've created.
Step 5: Trim any excess fabric and add decorative elements like ribbon, beads, or glitter if desired.
Step 6: Attach your hanging method. For stiffened ornaments, you can punch a small hole and thread cord through, or glue a ribbon loop to the back.
This method suits Victorian-style ornaments and vintage aesthetics.
Small details separate handmade ornaments from truly special ones.
Simple ribbon loops work for most applications, but consider alternatives for variety. Satin ribbon in coordinating colours looks polished, whilst metallic cord adds sparkle to Christmas decorations. For a traditional look, plaited embroidery thread in colours from your design creates a custom effect.
Ornament hooks (available at Christmas shops and craft stores) allow easy removal from trees and work well for ornaments you'll store between seasons. Some stitchers prefer magnetic hanging systems for displaying ornaments on metal surfaces.
Add beads to echo colours in your design, or stitch on small sequins for sparkle. Decorative trims and braiding around edges create a finished look, particularly on flat backed ornaments. Pom-poms in coordinating colours add texture and visual interest.
When adding embellishments, use fabric glue or hand stitch them securely. Check that everything is firmly attached, particularly if creating ornaments for children where small pieces could pose risks.
Adding names, dates, or initials turns ornaments into keepsakes. You can stitch these details before finishing, or use fabric markers to add information to the back. Small charms (like tiny bells or miniature photo frames) glued to ribbon loops personalise gifts.
Traditional designs featuring stars, trees, snowflakes, and holiday messages never go out of style. Consider creating matching sets for an advent calendar, with each ornament numbered and revealed daily throughout December. Stocking name tags help identify whose is whose in families with multiple stockings.
Caterpillar Cross Stitch offers numerous patterns and kits sized perfectly for ornament finishing.
Easter ornaments featuring spring flowers, bunnies, and decorated eggs brighten the season. Hang them on branches in a vase for a festive display, or use them as gift tags on Easter baskets.
Birthday ornaments customised with names or ages make memorable gifts that can be saved and displayed each year. New baby ornaments marking birth details become cherished keepsakes. Wedding anniversary ornaments commemorate important dates for couples.
Proper storage extends the life of your handmade decorations.
Store ornaments in acid-free tissue paper or bubble wrap, keeping them in boxes where they won't be crushed. Separate delicate ornaments with cardboard dividers. Keep storage boxes in dry areas away from temperature extremes, as damp conditions can damage fabric and stuffing.
For decorative ornaments displayed year-round, dust gently with a soft brush every few months. Protect framed ornaments from direct sunlight, which fades threads over time.
If ornaments become dirty, spot-clean carefully with a barely damp cloth. Avoid soaking finished ornaments, as water can damage glue, stuffing, and backing materials.
Puckering fabric: This usually happens when stitches are too tight or fabric isn't properly secured during finishing. Press carefully and consider using interfacing behind your work for stability.
Uneven stuffing: Add stuffing gradually in small amounts, using a blunt tool to push it into corners. If lumps develop, open the seam and redistribute the filling.
Fraying edges: Apply fray check (available at fabric shops) to cut edges before sewing. For finished pieces showing fraying, carefully trim loose threads and seal edges with a tiny dab of clear-drying fabric glue.
Visible seams: When hand sewing closing seams, use ladder stitch rather than running stitch. Match your thread colour exactly to your fabric for nearly invisible results.
Wonky hanging loops: Measure and mark the exact centre of your ornament's top edge before attaching loops. Pin loops in place and check they hang straight before sewing permanently.
Many of our cross stitch kits work beautifully when finished as ornaments. Smaller designs complete quickly and give you satisfaction without months of stitching.
Our Christmas collection includes designs sized perfectly for tree decorations. These patterns feature traditional motifs that work well with any of the finishing methods described in this guide.
For year-round projects, look at our seasonal patterns and small designs. Many can be adapted for ornament finishing even if originally intended for other displays.
Join our Facebook community to see how other stitchers finish their ornaments and share your own creations. The group offers inspiration and troubleshooting help when you need it.
Designs measuring 2-4 inches work well for tree decorations. Use 14-count Aida fabric, which provides good detail without excessive stitching time. This size hangs well on branches without weighing them down and displays nicely whether viewed up close or from across the room.
Most smaller patterns work, but square or circular designs finish most easily. Irregular shapes require more advanced sewing skills to create neat edges. Consider the design placement too; centred motifs work better than patterns positioned to one side, which can make ornaments hang unevenly.
Leave 1-2 inches minimum on all sides for stuffed ornaments, as you'll need this excess for seams. Flat backed ornaments can work with slightly less, about 1 inch. The exact amount depends on your finishing method and design size.
In the UK, we typically say "baubles" for round tree decorations and "ornaments" more generally for any decorative hanging item. The terms are often used interchangeably. In the US, "ornament" is the standard term for all types.
This depends on your finishing method. Stuffed ornaments shouldn't be washed once assembled, as water damages the stuffing and can cause fabric to shrink at different rates. Hoop ornaments with felt backing also resist washing. Always wash and press your work before finishing. For finished pieces that get dirty, spot-clean very carefully.
Beginners typically need 1-2 hours for simple methods like hoop finishing or flat backed ornaments. Stuffed ornaments take longer, usually 2-3 hours when you include sewing, turning, stuffing, and closing the seam. Your time improves with practice as you develop techniques that work well for you.
Consider age appropriateness when choosing embellishments. Avoid small beads, sequins, or buttons that could detach and pose choking hazards for young children. Make sure all seams are secure and stuffing can't escape. For toddlers and babies, keep ornaments simple with only stitched designs and firmly sewn ribbons.
Now you have multiple methods for finishing cross stitch ornaments successfully. Each technique offers different benefits depending on your project size, intended use, and skill level. Start with simpler methods like hoop finishing to build confidence, then try more involved techniques as your abilities develop.
The key to beautiful ornaments lies in careful preparation, neat finishing, and attention to detail in those final touches. Take your time with each step, and you'll create decorations that bring joy for years to come.
Looking for your next ornament project? Browse our range of cross stitch kits to find patterns ready for finishing with these techniques.
Happy stitching!
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